Day 113 - Balconies and tango

I was a little nervous coming back to Buenos Aires after Patagonia. It is like falling in love with somebody, spending just a little bit of time with him, and then having to face the fact that you are about to meet him in the airport after a long trip (during which you missed and idealized his every feature to the point of no return). What if in reality his crooked nose is not as charming as you recall? A little scary...

But thank God, Buenos Aires still has no crooked noses, as far as I am concerned: steak is delicious (although cordero patagonico was certainly a competitive alternative), ambiance outstanding, culture exciting. Phew...


I'm fascinated by the balconies of San Telmo...



I am also fascinated by the fact that there are no modern (acrobatic) tango shows anywhere in the city! They sell tango electronico CD's on every corner, but all the venues (and there are surprisingly few!) - like Nocturna, for example, or Tanguetto - are currently either closed or traveling abroad. This is a serious shame. I walk into every store / restaurant where I hear tango music from and inquire... but nothing! I don't mind the traditional tango (in fact, I love it!), but I also want to watch something Cirque de Soleil'ish, but with tango. Hmmm, maybe the next Cirque du Soleil show should be tango-based. That would be super cool!


On the bright side, now I have a growing list of popular tango electronico and narcotango bands, so at least I can update my music collection:

• Bajo Fondo
• Tanghetto
• Otro Aires
• Gotan Project

Babel Suites - a new hotel that I'm staying in (also in San Telmo) - is awesome. It is affiliated with the Hotel Babel that I stayed at before Patagonia, but it is organized as a little apartment building with absolutely spectacular little (well, the size of my Manhattan place:)) loft-apartments. The breakfast is not as amazing as at the Hotel Babel (because they expect you to use your own fully-equipped kitchen, I guess), and you don't interact with the staff as much (although it's as helpful in providing insightful advice as at the other place, but for some reason I just don't feel as comfortable asking them many questions, as in my eyes they carry out the function of doormen and not hotel concierges), but it is so great to stay in your own apartment, instead of a hotel room. In other words, I highly recommend it.

At night, despite pouring rain, I ventured out 5 blocks away to see another play - Es Inevitable - a very controversial (because of some lesbian scenes) teatro cinematografico work by Diego Casado Rubio, a Spanish screenwright who resides in Argentina. This time, I didn't understand every word (they were speaking way too fast and with a lot of local lingo), but the general gist of it was pretty clear, althoug obscure at the same time (but I am pretty sure that I would have been left with the same feeling had I watched it in English). It is a very interesting work that touches on all the issues of being a woman, as well as different aspects of grief. It is fascinating (this seems to be my favorite word of today) how each individual is different, yet all of us are so similar in certain aspects. For example, if you start the grieving process (for lost love, a dead relative, a terrible job), it will inevitably (maybe hence the name of the play) lead you to grieving all the sad aspects of your life: if you start lamenting the death of your husband (like in this case, for example), it will only take you a little while to miss your long-dead mother along with a daughter that you have had... After reading a ton of reviews and viewers' comments (in Spanish!), I came to the conclusion that I had gotten the idea of the play pretty well.

Day 112 - Pain

As defined by Wikipedia, pain is an unpleasant sensory and emotional experience associated with actual or potential tissue damage, or described in terms of such damage. In case of a migraine pain, for example, try an unbearable sensory and emotional experience... I am lucky that I have migraines only once a month nowadays, but that doesn't change the fact that this is an awful experience. In fact, I feel that the less frequent my migraines get, the more emotionally and physically intolerable they become (as you get "un-used" to them, I guess).

I want to write about MY pain, but I'm in so much pain that I cannot even think about it...

Some two years ago, I read Atonement by Ian McEwan, that I think contains the best description of the migraine and its impact on people's life and the life of those around them that I have ever encountered in literature. As an example, this is one of the passages:

"She decided against closing the French windows, and sat down at one end of the Chesterfield. She was not exactly waiting, she felt. No one else she knew had her knack of keeping still, without even a book on her lap, of moving gently through her thoughts, as one might explore a new garden. She had learned her patience through years of sidestepping migraine. Fretting, concentrated thought, reading, looking, wanting – all were to be avoided in favor of a slow drift of association, while the minutes accumulated like banked snow and the silence deepened around her."

This is how it would feel if it were (well, it WAS) painted...

Weeping Woman

by Picasso

This is a compilation of images on migraine that I have been browing through almost all day while trying to dull my own pain...

The images are taken from the following websites:
- http://www.lifeinthefastlane.ca/alluring-abstract-art-of-agonizing-migraines/art
- http://www.migraineartwork.com/migraine_art.html

Day 111 - "I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in." ~John Muir

If you consult anybody - a travel guide, a tour operator, or even an Argentinian - they will tell you that El Calafate is worth staying in only for a couple of days. There is only one attraction there - the Perito Moreno glacier, and everybody comes to either see it or to trek it. Otherwise, there's nothing to do here.

After spending a week here, I would want to stay more, and the only thing that is stopping me from changing my flight to Buenos Aires is the fact that there is no rooms available in the hotel that I'm staying in, and I am not going to go into the hassle of spending a whole day in search of another good one in the area (it's never really easy). There are certainly better ways of spending a day in South Patagonia.

For example, bird watching...

Or stone watching...

Or sleeping like a stone...

............................................................................

Funny how accurate the expression "Be careful what you wish for" is: my wish to stay in El Calafate longer was fulfilled by all the planes being delayed. So I had to spend 3 hours in the airport waiting for the clearing on take-off. Strangely, these delays don't bother me anymore. Have I gotten used to such minor travel hick-ups, or is it just because I have all the time in the world and am not really in a hurry to get anywhere, like many other people? Whatever the reason, when I took a look around the cafeteria - where everybody stationed - I realized I was the only one smiling, with Manu Chao in full blast on my iPod, writing updates for the blog, juggling three simultaneous g-chat sessions. Curious...

As almost expected, there was a silver lining to this delay... Well, there was a red-and-silver lining... a beautiful sunset as seen from the plane window...

Day 110 - 3000

Today, I noticed that since January 30th, when I got my new awesome camera (Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZR1) as a Bon Voyage gift, it has already snapped a little over 3,000 photos! That is an everage of about 30 photos per day... Regardless of whether it's a lot or a little, I pronounce today my camera's anniversary and celebrate by posting photo #3,000!

Day 109 - "Eternity in an hour"

To see a world in a Grain of Sand,
And a Heaven in a Wild Flower,
Hold Infinity in the palm of your hand,
And eternity in an hour.

William Blake

Beauty is unbearable, offering us for a minute the glimpse of an eternity that we should like to stretch out over the whole of time. Albert Camus

After an eternity of seeking,
the sudden threshold of seeing and finding
leaves one filled with a strange paradox of ecstasy and grief.
I was born to see.
Joy Page

The birds have vanished into the sky, and now the last cloud drains away.
We sit together, the mountain and me, until only the mountain remains.
Li Bai


Time is but the stream I go fishing in.

I drink at it, but while I drink I see the sandy bottom and detect how shallow it is.

It's thin current slides away, but eternity remains.

Henry David Thoreau

Eternity is not something that begins after you're dead.

It is going on all the time.

We are in it now.

Charlotte Perkins Gilman

P.S. Some Irrelevant Facts:

• The Perito Moreno glacier is bigger than Buenos Aires. It is a 250 km2 [97 sq mi] ice formation, 30 km [19 mi] in length, with an average height of 74 m [240 ft] above the surface of the water, and a total ice depth of 170 metres [558 ft].
• It is unaffected by the global warming.
• The blue color of ice has to do with the optical effect of light reflection.

P.S.S. Some Relevant Facts:

• The thunder of icebergs separating from the glacier is a mesmerizing sound.
• Walking on ice feels somewhat like diving. Curiosly enough, nobody really talks. The glacier is awe-inspiring.
• The adjacent forest provides most spectacular views of the glacier through the trees.
  

Day 108 - Apocalypse now...

El Chalten claims to be the national capital of trekking. Trekking is hiking. In Tanya's opinion, the word "trekking" is pretentious. She says, "it's like using 'futbol' for 'soccer' in the US, but worse". In my opinion, if the whole world uses it instead of "hiking" and "futbol" instead of "soccer", who's really being pretentious here... Regardless of our linguistic disagreement, there is no argument that the place has the right to be the national (or world's, or Universe's!) capital of hiking/trekking!

El Chalten is a tiny mountain village located a little over 200 km from El Calafate, so it takes about 2.5 hours to get there. Unless you make a pit-stop at estancia La Leona to get coffee and apple pie by the fire and all of a sudden discover that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were enjoying coffee at the same exact location for a month after a big bank robbery at Rio Galleos right before they fled to Bolivia. (Ohhh, what a great movie!!! I want to watch it again, right now!!!) Then, it takes 3.5 hours.

Oh, and if you wish to make your trip just an impressive couple of minutes longer, make sure you stop by the Bay of the Wind. Dramatic sounds accompanied by equally dramatic views.

Weather permitting, all you do in El Chalten is hike, hike, hike. There are myriads of treks of various difficulty levels and duration. Weather not permitting so much, all you do in El Chalten is drive, drive, drive. The scenery is spectacular all the way to El Chalten, in El Chalten, around El Chalten, and out of El Chalten to the magical lake Lago Disierto.

At first, I was a little disappointed that it was drizzling all the time (and drizzle coupled with only +2C / 36F is good neither for trekking, nor for hiking), but then I realized that this weather was a pretty lucky thing to happen. Doom and gloom of low season Patagonia created this absolutely awesome apocalyptic special effect: dark low sky, fields of prickly shrubs with an occasional leafless black tree broken into the weirdest - almost horizontal - shape by incessant winds, age-old indifferent snow-mountains, no people for miles and miles on end... It feels like the only protection you have is the oxygen in your car, and if you open the window and breathe in the ouside, that will be it...

I still did some little treks in the rain. The air was actually super-breathable and delicious! And every time when the sun graced the land with its brief presence, the whole land would magically transform into... my favorite San Juan reef in Cozumel! I have goosebumps as I write this now...

Day 107 - Sunrise, sunset

Traveling is exhausting... I feel like somebody has beat me up with a bat... I think it's all the new impressions you make, new information your brain tries to process, new people you meet and talk to, new stories, new climates, new views from your window, new beds, new breakfasts... It is all wonderful, yet utterly exhausting from time to time. Somehow, your brain and your body miss the routine, I guess.


So far, I have been very lucky that every time this travel exhaustion hits me, I am in a beautifully relaxing place, with some amazing view. I really don't feel the need to do anything when I'm here by my window, that here - so close to the South Pole - can accommodate viewing both sunrise and sunset by the way... Can it get better than that, really?

Yes, it can! Just try a massage with a view on the Patagonian mountains... And an amazing cordero patagonico (lamb) dinner in town.

Day 106 - A day at La Usina

It was a perfect day.


La Usina is a ranch (estancia) / restaurant. It is located about a gorgeous hour away from my hotel and provides a lot of activities, so you can easily spend all day there. Which is exactly what I did, leaving the hotel at 9AM and coming back at 7PM. The place is absolutely incredible. Upon arriving, you are greeted with a welcome cup of tea and set out on whatever adventure you want:

• Ride a horse in the mountains and valleys.

• Drive a 4x4 around the ranch.

• Hang out with cute Patagonian animals (exotic llama-like guanaco and ostrich-like choique, and less exotic but equally cute sheep, goats, cats). Apparently, I have never touched a sheep before - dear God, it feels like one sheep can produce 100 sweaters (at least, this fatty totally could)!
  

• Make an attempt at artistic photos.

In other words, simply enjoy the outside beauty and the inside gastronomy (in my case, smoked trout empanadas and grilled Patagonian lamb)...

Actually, I don't understand why we don't have places like that Upstate NY. I think it could work wonderfully. Side note: just talked to Jennifer, and it turns out that places like that did, in fact, exist Upstate NY, but they are out of fashion now. What a shame! Maybe it's time to revive the concept!!!

I am so happy that it is low season here now! Everywhere you go, you inevitably become part of the local crowd, because there is no tourist crowd anywhere to become part of...

Day 105 - Still in the stillness

It is very quiet here. Complete silence. I do not remember when I last was able to listen to it... There are always either waves, or birds, or cars, or mosquitos, or people...

The Las Dunas hotel where I'm staying is located a 10-minute car ride from the tiny town of El Calafate, on a beautiful lake, Lago Argentino, and provides gorgeous 180-degree views of Patagonia snow-mountains... Freezing flamingos are also part of this unbelievable setting...

I feel a little under the weather today, so instead of venturing out on a glacier excursion or something, I stay on the couch all day, with a great book, a cup of hot tea, and a most gorgeous scenery to stare into.

The landscape looks and feels surreal, because nothing moves, everything is super still... And quiet... No sound, no movement. Strange. Beautifully strange. Very peacefully strange. I enjoy this strange stillness and am glad to become it, if only for a few days.

Day 104 - Double or nothing

First "hick-up" in my travel planning. Got up at 6AM this morning to get to the local Buenos Aires airport for my flight to El Calafate, Patagonia on time, only to find out that my ticket has not been paid yet, therefore I have two options: (1) Take the next flight to El Calafate, not a direct one, so it takes twice as long; or (2) Take the original flight tomorrow.

I was pissed - how could my ticket not be paid for yet? I had a confirmation printed out, as always, just in case. Upon scrutinizing the numerous pages of the print-out, the airport clerk proved to me that it was, in fact, my fault. Although I still beg to differ: after all, when you receive an email with the subject "Your flight confirmation", the first 3 lines of which (in bold) read "Your flight has been confirmed. Your purchase has been confirmed. Your seat has been confirmed", do you really bother to check page 55 of the said email, where in the smallest letters possible it says that you are supposed to "Pay for the ticket within the next 24 hours" (without any instructions on how exactly that must be done - and in any case, why can't they just take the money out of my Amex when the number is clearly provided, and why do they say "puchase is confirmed" if there has been no purchase???). (*^&%(*^%

Oh well, in any "double or nothing" case, I'm the "double" person, so obviously, I decide to go today. And - as always, it's all for the best - if I flew directly to El Calafate, I would have never been able to get a bird's-eye view of the snow-mountains of Patagonia that the landing in Ushuaia provided!

Day 103 - Vivarium

After a pretty relaxing day of doing pretty much nothing in particular and an even more relaxing tasting of Mendoza Malbec wines (turns out that although Malbec originated in France, Argentina provides the best soil for the grape), I hit myself over the head with a hammer...

Several days ago I was browsing through a local happenings magazine Llegas, and decided to go to a play in an independent tiny theater in Monserrat (a Buenos Aires neighborhood). Due to my limited knowledge of Spanish, I could not choose any comedy (you have to understand the language really well to be able to get the humor - I remember, it took me about a year of living in NYC to laugh with the audience while watching Friends or Seinfeld). So after skimming through this description 'If all the individuals of any species were habitually to suffer to an extreme degree they would neglect to propagate their kind Charles Darwin' and thinking to myself, "Anybody can probably understand existential crap in any language", I picked Vivarium. It was a great choice, but oh boy, was it heavy... Excellent acting though. And a great little theater space, where you feel like you are almost part of the stage.

And I understood everything! Every single word!!! I knew it - good choice:). Am patiently waiting for the moment when all this passive knowledge will spill over from the comprehension realm into the fluent conversing... Although instead of practicing patience, I should probably practice talking more whenever I get a chance. But hey, that's still me, miracles don't happen overnight.

Day 102 – On the real meaning of politeness or “Why travel?”

Today, I woke up with this question, “Why do people travel?” Just like with diving, I have no idea why exactly I am doing this (or why anybody does it, for that matter). Without a doubt, it is nice to see different places, to learn different traditions, to get to know different people. But what is the true objective of travel (universal or individual)? And should there even be one? Maybe this is how you can quickly reach your personal enlightenment, rapidly moving through various experiences according to the 10,000 joys and 10,000 sorrows concept (pardon my “spiritual cheesiness” – after all, I am writing this while sipping delicious yerba from my newly acquired and properly cured mate set watching a most gorgeous Uruguayan sunset – I dare you not to be cheesy with such a backdrop for your thoughts). Or maybe everything is much more complicated… Anyway, here’s what happened today.

I went to Uruguay just for the randomness of it. Uruguay has NEVER been on my “countries to visit” list, but it is so easily accessible from Buenos Aires: the little town of Colonia del Sacramento is only one hour away on a funny Buquebus (pronounced bookeyboos) ferry across Rio de la Plata – I thought it would be a shame not to go there if only for having the pleasure to say later, “Oh yeah, I remember when in Uruguay...”

The place is absolutely spectacular! This little colonial town with amazing cobble-stone streets and gorgeous views is 100% worth not only passing by as a pretty famous tourist attraction but actually spending some quiet autumn days in. I even tried to find a bed & breakfast with a nice river view to come back to after I return from Patagonia – but no such luck, everything is booked tight until the end of the month… But still being here made me rethink my loose future plans to go to Iguazu Falls. I think that I will try to look for a place like this instead, somewhere in Argentina, and enjoy chilly fall mornings with a beautiful foliage view for a week or so.

Curiously enough, I got my morning question answered right here, in the total randomness of Uruguay (the whole idea of me being in Uruguay continues to crack me up for some reason). After saying gracias on multiple occasions, I learnt that the proper response to it here is mereces (“you deserve it”). What a beautiful alternative to “welcome” in USA or “de nada” in Mexico or “por favor” in Argentina! Don’t you think that if you heard this every time you said “thank you”, you would really start believing that you DESERVE IT? Deserve your coffee, deserve your steak… and you travel simply because - duh – you deserve it! Why the hell look for any other reason? Eventually, and inevitably, this simple formula of politeness should work as an affirmation and boost your self-esteem. I would definitely advise to start employing it in our daily conversations and see what happens around…

P.S. More on the advantages of dual citizenship
Apparently, while being a Russian citizen exempts you from paying an entrance fee or needing a visa to Argentina, you do require one for Uruguay. However, Americans don’t. So here we go again – after a small confusion with my red and blue passports at the Argentinian-Uruguayan immigration, I was let out of Argentina as a Russian Maria Shibaeva and entered Uruguay as an American Maria Hykin.

Day 101 - Living to the rhythm of tango

Buenos Aires is all about the tango. You hear this passionate music in different variations and arrangements - from traditional to ultra modern contemporary (tango electronico) - on every corner, in every cafe, at every store in San Telmo (in other areas it's a little toned down, but still present). I love it, because tango is my favorite dance. So of course, I go to a very touristy - yet super fun - tango lesson + dinner + performance combo after a most relaxing day in one of the Buenos Aires parks. A side note: I took my computer there in the attempt to update my blog, but instead ended up doing nothing but watching some funny looking red-headed birds).

If you want to go dance tango in Buenos Aires, you go to a milonga. You can come with your own partner, but it is common for guys and girls to come solo and just mix and match in the process of dancing. A peculiar detail: a guy must pick you, you cannot pick a guy; but when he picks you (with his eyes and a specific tilt of his head), you must say "yes". Because you come to a milonga to dance, and for no other reason.

The show today featured the history of tango since 1900's till nowadays, and now I really want to see a tango electronico performance (the music is pretty cool, and the moves are very power-acrobatic). I got some information from my helpful hotel staff, but it looks like I am out of luck: the best group - Tanghetto - is now performing in Chicago. Seriously? So I have to do some more research, to the sound of the most famous electrotango band called BajoFondo.

Days 98-100 – How to wear out your shoes in 3 days or a Buenos Aires city walk

Buenos Aires seems a lot like New York to me (especially given the fact that apparently there are 13,000,000 people living here, which makes it the second largest South American metropolitan area after Sao Paolo in Brazil): a lot of culture, a lot of art, theater, street performances, fairies, shows, flea markets, live music, excellent food… In short, a lot of random stuff to do if you know how to find it. And the hotel where I am staying provides amazing service of keeping you in the loop of the local happenings.

The hotel deserves a special mention. In our travel tandem with Tanya (and we travel together a lot), I am responsible for the trip itinerary and guiding our tour, and she is responsible for the accommodations and street navigation. Unfortunately, I’m left to my own navigational devices at the moment (a scary thought, although surprisingly I can orient myself very well in Buenos Aires – at least, so far I have never gotten lost - another testament that this is “my” city), but she is still responsible for finding lodging for me (not a bad arrangement, right?). And she did a wonderful job on this one. Hotel Babel is located in the heart of San Telmo, the best preserved area of the old colonial town still keeping up the tradition of tango (both live music and dancing) on every corner and in every café. San Telmo is super centrally located, so from here you can pretty much walk everywhere else in the city, even if sometimes it’s a bit of a hike – a pleasant one though. The hotel is tiny – as far as I can tell, it can hold maybe 16-20 guests at a time with double occupancy. The rooms are designed in a very peculiar way: they do not have windows, which seems very depressing if you think about it, but the doors double nicely as windows, and somehow - when you actually get to experience it - it doesn’t feel sad or oppressive at all. The tiny common spaces (both the outside patio and inside “living room”) are organized in such a homey way that you really forget that you are in a hotel – more so, you forget that there are other guests around you somewhere. It is really a miracle of creativity that in such a tiny space they manage to let you feel as if you own the place (and on top of everything, with a very attentive butler who never forgets to ask you if you want some tea and sandwiches while you are comfortably tucked into the corner of the couch with your book or computer). The staff is unbelievably helpful. Every day all the guests are torturing them with all sorts of questions. It is absolutely clear that they love their city and they bend over backwards to explain what to do, how to best go about doing it, where to eat, how to order that you pass for a local, etc. In other words, if you ever go to Buenos Aires and need a lodging that is budget in terms of accommodations but luxurious in terms of service – this is definitely it.

Day 1 – San Telmo, La Boca and Puerto Madero

Walk. Walk. Walk. And then walk some more. Just like in NYC, this is the best way to see Buenos Aires. Occasionally stop for a sip of coffee with a delicious medialuna (Argentinian croissant, sometimes with dulce de leche inside – oh my god!) and a street tango performance on one of the numerous plazas around San Telmo. Don’t forget to chat with street vendors – they have awesome little tips to share while you are paying for yummy candied nuts or empanadas. If you are here on Sunday, do not miss the street fairy on Defensa. But if you are not so lucky as to visit this area on the weekend, you will not be disappointed either – it is always full of artisanal street markets.

Ignore the warnings of many travel guides that say that the famous Caminito is the only safe place in La Boca (this area gets sketchy only below Avenida Brown) and venture into the very residential heart of it for a delicious authentic lunch at Cantina El Obrero at Agustín R. Caffarena 64, where for the total of about $10 -15 you will be served all the soup you can eat from a huge bowl literally dumped on your table by a busy waiter, your choice of the best meat you have tried in your life, a dessert and a coffee.

Of course, still go to the colorful touristy Caminito – for an unforgettable street café tango performance not to be missed.

Return back to your residence via Puerto Madero – a modern and extremely popular boardwalk. Have dinner at any resto-bar (local lingo). Really, any – all food in Buenos Aires is delicious, there’s no reason to waste any time picking.

Day 2 – Recoleta

Walk. Walk. Walk. And then walk some more. Through the financial district (marked as San Nicolas area on the map, but known simply as Centro by the locals) with beautiful architecture, via the artisanal row of Florida Street and a little green corner of Plaza San Martin, via the confusing semi-circle of Arroyo Street, via the Madison-style shopping area of Avenida Posadas (if you want a nice coffee / milanesa mini-sandwich snack for $3, Café La Rambla is at your service), make it to the cemetery of La Recoleta. Hopefully, not literally though. I’m not a big fan of famous cemeteries, but this one is worth visiting – curiously, it looks like a little town due to its very tall crypts.

At the adjacent Plaza Francia you will be able to see lots of people doing lots of random things: capoeiro performance, sun-bathing, playing jazz, selling stuff… Hang out, give in to the spirit of the place, become one of the portenos (people living in Buenos Aires). In the words of a travel commercial I have recently seen, "Buenos Aires te guia, tu disfrutas" ("Buenos Aires guides you, you enjoy").

Speaking of a true Argentinian look: everybody is drinking mate here in the streets, with a little thermos hugged close to chest and a mate “cup” (made out of a pumpkin) in hand. Except it’s called yerba. In preparation of becoming a true la china (an Argentinian girl), I have purchased a tiny mate cup that apparently needs to be “cured” for 36 hours first to deliver the proper taste afterwards, a little 0.5l thermos and some yerba mate (I picked the brand that I saw an ad for in the subway – I don’t know if this is the way to select your yerba, but at least, I have justified the advertising campaign dollars). To cure the cup you have to fill it halfway with yerba leaves, top it off with hot water and let it sit like this for a day and a half.

After Plaza Francia, do NOT take Avenida Libertador (as inviting as it will seem), but rather find your way onto Avenida Figuerca Alcorta (not a very difficult maneuver). Walk just a little more to see the Escultura de la Rosa (officially named Floralis Generica), a huge metal “universal” flower that is a tribute to all the flowers in the world. It’s operated on solar batteries and designed to open up its petals at 7-8AM and close up at 8PM, just like a real flower.

Walk or subway back to your residence in San Telmo. Have the most delicious steak in your entire life at a pretty fancy-looking traditional parilla (grill) Viejo Gomez on Estados Unidos (ironically) street. Mimic the Mastercard commercial by paying $12 for a huge piece of grilled filet + $8 for a bottle of an awesome Mendoza Malbec + $5 for the coffee / dessert combo, yet delivering the whole experience priceless. Roll your eyes in ecstatic pleasure. Try to find words to describe your experience to yourself. Give up, because there are no such words in any dictionary. Just enjoy. Go to bed and dream about your next Buenos Aires walk.

Day 3 – Palermo

Fine, this time take subway first (very convenient and cheap – 1.10 Argentinia Pesos = $$0.30!). But then again: Walk. Walk. Walk. And then walk some more. Make it through the beautiful Palermo Park area with its gorgeous and relaxing Japanese and Botanical gardens to the trendy Palermo Viejo area with its multiple restaurants and shops.

For a local empanadas experience, go to Na Serapia on Avenida General Las Heras between Bulnes and Ruggeri (keep in mind that it is open from 7AM till 1AM every day, except it closes from 4PM till 7PM on Sundays – when I first tried to sample food here, of course). For a fancy Palermo-style meal, go to Osaka, a Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant (expensive but very tasty and interesting).

Disclaimer
If you find the above city walks appealing and decide to relive my experiences, after 3 days your shoes may or may not look like this, and a mean looking old shoe-maker may or may not look at your reproachfully and grunt, "Either you give me 3 full days to properly fix the sole, or I am not going to even bother with these":

Is this love, is this love, is this love, is this love that I'm feeling...

I have not been writing for the past couple of days not because of lack of internet or time. I am just overwhelmed, and I honestly don't know where to start. I AM IN LOVE WITH THIS CITY!!! I knew it the second I stepped out of the airport. Love at first sight. Last time I felt this way - with New York - I moved... So my stay here is beginning with a dangerous flutter in my stomach. I am already eyeing various buildings where I could potentially rent an apartment and thinking how long before my Spanish becomes "workable"...

First, let me shout out everything that overwhelms me about the city, maybe that way I can proceed in a reasonably organized fashion. FOOD IS AWESOME! LIVE MUSIC EVERYWHERE! PARKS, PARKS, PARKS, PARKS! STEAK! MEDIALUNAS (local croissants, that are - and I am not afraid to say it out loud - BETTER than their Parisian counterparts)! EVERYTHING IS CHEAP! THE WEATHER IS SPECTACULAR – a true Indian summer right now, with cold foggy mornings and nights, gorgeous sunny 70-degree days, and the air smelling like wet yellow leaves… TANGO EVERYWHERE! TANGO MUSIC EVERYWHRE! PEOPLE ARE WALKING, PICNICKING, SITTING IN THE OUTSIDE CAFES EVERYWHERE! ART! THEATER! I LOVE ALL OF THIS!!!!!!! I DO NOT KNOW HOW WORDS CAN DESCRIBE WHAT I’M FEELING HERE!

Really, how do you describe love? I fully realize that I am not going to be objective about Buenos Aires– those silly butterflies in my stomach will not let me see anything terrible about it in the week that I'm planning to spend here. If I ever really move here for some time, the city will definitely reveal its bad traits and habits to me. But so what? Let me enjoy my jittery infatuation for as long as it lasts, and then... Like in any relationship, you hope that after a while, after idealizing some ugly birthmark on the face of your beloved, you will just stop noticing it instead of getting utterly disgusted and turning its presence into a huge fight, eventually leading to divorce:).

Hmmm, this didn't seem to help. I still don't feel detached enough to be able to write anything coherent about my experiences in this city. Wow...

Day 97 - Advantages of dual citizenship or "Как получишь паспорт, береги его"

At the passport control in Buenos Aires today, I learnt that as an American citizen I have to pay an entrance fee of $130 (you do not need any visa to go to Argentina, just this fee, that allows you to come back without any further payments for the next 10 years). When I showed my American passport at the payment booth though, they said, "Oh, you are Russian. Do you still have your valid Russian passport? Is it with you?" And yes, I did and it was. At this point, I was surprised to find out that as a Russian citizen I do not have to pay anything. So I entered Argentina as a Russian, delighted that for the first time in my entire traveling life the red passport has presented advantages over the blue one. A little puzzled, but mostly delighted.

Day 96 - Leaving paradise is hard...

I woke up this morning with a clear realization that I absolutely do not want to leave. If it was up to me, I would stay here for another week and not do any activities (however fun and awesome) in Bonito, but just remain in this forest-hotel all the time, reading, writing, chatting on Skype with friends, rocking in the hammock... Maybe it's a sign that I need a house in the forest. Somewhere Upstate NY. Something like Jennifer's, just not on the water (for the obvious reasons of dealing with flood maintenance). Ah! I do not want to leave this paradise!!!

On the other hand, I do look forward to the long beautiful ride back to the Campo Grande airport and then packing for... Argentina! Yes, I am going to Buenos Aires tomorrow! Although a little sad to leave my new amazing friends in Brazil, but super excited for my next destination!

Travel Stats

By now, my dear friends from work are probably worried sick that I have been traveling for over a quarter and still have not posted any travel statistics. Worry no more - here they are!:) If you have any interesting suggestions as to what else can make my highlights list, please let me know.

South Africa

• Total full days in the country: 10
• Number of towns visited: 3
  Countries visited: South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana
• Total distance traveled inside the country: 2,868 km (1,784 mi)
  Cape Town, South Africa - Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe = 1,923 km (1,195 mi)
  Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe - Johannesburg, South Africa = 945 km (589 mi)
  Johannesburg, South Africa - Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia = 8,534 km (5,303 mi)
• Types of transportation used: plane, car
• Number of dives: 0
• $$$ spent: not too much due to the specifics of my trip; otherwise - food is very affordable, wine is cheap, hotels are outrageously expensive, tickets to and from are very expensive.
• Favorite food: antelope
• Favorite alcoholic beverage: Pinotage wine (and, surprisingly, South African Chardonnay)
• Favorite non-alcoholic beverage: N/A
• Most wonderful experience: safari
• Most awful experience: passport control in Zimbabwe
• Strangest experience: Carnivore

Malaysia

• Total full days in the country: 18
• Number of towns visited:
• Total distance traveled inside the country: 3,819 km (2,267 mi)
  Kuala Lumpur - Penang = 292 km (182 mi)
  Penang - Kota Kinabalu, Borneo = 1,733 km (1,077 mi)
  Kota Kinabalu - Brunei = 172 km (103 mi)
  Brunei - Kuala Lumpur = 1,622 km (1,008 mi)
  Kuala Lumpur - Tashkent - Saint-Petersburg = 5,322 + 3,356 = 8,678 km (3,307 + 2,086 = 5,393 mi)
• Types of transportation used: plane, car, ferry
• Number of dives: 0
• $$$ spent: everything is pretty cheap (including 5-star hotels)
• Favorite food: roti canai
• Favorite alcoholic beverage: N/A
• Favorite non-alcoholic beverage: Original Nescafe (milk and sugar) in a can
• Most wonderful experience: fireflies show
• Most awful experience: trying to find the stupid Lake Gardens in KL
• Strangest experience: the shortest flight in my life

Argentina

• Total full days in the country: 32
• Number of towns visited: 8
• Total distance traveled inside the country: 6,468km (4,021mi)
  Buenos Aires - Colonia del Sacramento (Uruguay) - Buenos Aires = 59km (36mi)
  Buenos Aires - El Calafate (including the unscheduled detour to Ushuaia) - Buenos Aires = 5,020km (3,118mi)
  El Calafate - El Chalten - El Calafate = 244km (152mi)
  Buenos Aires - Isla Margarita - Buenos Aires = 300km (188mi)
  Buenos Aires - Cordoba - Buenos Aires = 645km (401mi)
  Cordoba - La Cumbrecita - Cordoba = 100km (63mi)
  Cordoba - Colonia Coroya - Cordoba = 100km (63mi)
• Types of transportation used: plane, bus, car, boat, buquebus
• Number of dives: 0
• $$$ spent: delightfully affordable (the best steak dinner of my entire life included, naturally, a steak, a bottle of awesome Malbec, and a salad, and cost me $20!)
• Favorite food: bife de lomo a punto (bloody steak)
• Favorite alcoholic beverage: Malbec wine
• Favorite non-alcoholic beverage: yerba mate
• Most wonderful experience: falling in love with Buenos Aires
• Most awful experience: a long migraine
• Strangest experience: spending a week in the middle of nowhere
  
  

Brazil

• Total full days in the country: 35 + 1 transit day in the dentist's chair
• Number of towns visited: 8
• Total distance traveled inside the country: 4,970 km (3,088 mi)
  Rio de Janeiro - Paraty = 245 km
  Paraty - Ilha Grande = 150 km
  Ilha Grande - Rio de Janeiro = 125 km
  Rio de Janeiro - Buzios = 180 x 2 = 360 km
  Petropolis - Teresopolis - Petropolis = 50 km
  Petropolis - Rio de Janeiro - Petropolis = 70 x 2 = 140 km
  Rio de Janeiro - Tiradentes - Rio de Janeiro = 325 x 2 = 650 km
  Rio de Janeiro - Bonito - Rio de Janeiro = 1,625 x 2 = 3,250 km
• Types of transportation used: plane, bus, car, boat
• Number of dives: 0
• $$$ spent: Let me just disclose that Brazil is MUCH more expensive than I expected from a South American country (their economy is really on the rise, after all, and it is well reflected in the prices).
• Favorite food: Brazilian BBQ
• Favorite alcoholic beverage: caipifruta (caipirinha with various fruits, including but not limited to cashew fruit - yum)
• Favorite non-alcoholic beverage: fresh pineapple juice! I have never tried fresh juices like this before - they are so fluffy and light and absolutely heavenly. I think I am going to miss that the most outside Brazil (well, after my new friends I have met here, of course)
• Most wonderful experience: night trekking in Tiradentes
• Most awful experience: yupping tourists in Bonito
• Strangest experience: picking up the heart-shaped amethyst with my eyes closed

Mexico

• Total full days in the country: 102 (February-March - 60; June-July - 42)
• Number of towns visited: 3
  Total distance traveled inside the country: 80 mi
  Cozumel - Playa del Carmen - Punta Allen
• Types of transportation used: car, water ferry
• Number of dives: 189
• $$$ spent: being a scuba-diving touristy place, Cozumel is not as cheap as other locations in Mexico, but still very affordable, although diving prices make it an expensive vacation no matter how you slice and dice it.
• Favorite food: octopus at La Perlita (both in the ceviche and sauteed forms)
• Favorite alcoholic beverage: margatira at Wet Wendy's
• Favorite non-alcoholic beverage: jamaica (hibiscus tea)
• Most wonderful experience: private dive with Javier at San Juan
• Most awful experience: puking pressure headache at Eagle Ray City
• Strangest experience: talking to this guy under a palapa at Punta Allen with Ana during the pouring rain, having absolutely no idea how he looked like because of the pitch-black darkness.

Days 92-95 - Que Bonito!

Bonito is an eco-tourism area located to the west of Rio de Janeiro in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul right on the border with Paraguai. Bonito means "beautiful" in Spanish (and Portuguese) and - yes, it truly is!

The four days I spent here left me with extremely mixed feelings though. On one hand, this is one of the most beautiful nature places I have ever seen. On the other hand, it seems like it doubles as a magnet for the most annoying tourists ever (yours truly excluded, of course). But let me not get ahead of my own story.

A long road to heaven

I left my Rio apartment at 8AM to get on the plane Rio - Sao Paulo - Campo Grande. Upon arriving to Campo Grande I was met by my personal driver for the trip (pretty chic, right?:) I guess getting to Brazil in the first class made me want to continue here in the first class...). And so we set out on our loooong ride to Bonito. It was... 5 hours of driving! But oh my God, was it worth it! I love road trips, especially when the scenery is beautiful. And here it was beyond any possible expectations. The landscapes we passed by made me think of Ireland: the many shades of green, the pastures, the cows... The cows in Brazil are quite different though - they are called Nelore and were imported from India back in the day. I did not even recognize a cow in this strange mixture of an animal: camel hump-back and rooster neck on cow's body. (Upon doing the research on what the hell this creature might be, I found an interesting website on cattle - http://www.embryoplus.com/cattle_africander.html - who knew that there are so many varieties of cattle breeds! Hundreds!!! It is pretty fascinating - I mean, useless to me, yet fascinating!:))

Our long ride was peaceful and gorgeous, and it ended in a beautiful hotel: little bungalows are dispersed right in the middle of the forest, each has a veranda with a hammock and a spectacular view. The complete silence is interrupted only by the shrieks of wild birds, but surprisingly you get used to it pretty quickly and that does not sound annoying at all.

Enjoy the silence, damn it!!!

I wish tourists coming to Bonito were as easy to get used to as the wild birds. They are shrieking all right, too, but unfortunately it is impossible to make peace with it! I do not understand those people, really: you come to the natural reserve, a serene and peaceful place - don't you want to just enjoy the silence around you and observe animals and trees and fish and whatever else the environment may present? Apparently, I am the only one who thinks so. On every adventure trip I made to various places of interest here I was part of a group of 6-8 people who would NOT stop yupping for a second!!! A couple of trips involved snorkeling, and I was looking forward to it very much, as I thought - foolishly, as it turned out - that having face underwater would shut them up. No such luck - they continued talking with the snorkels in their mouths! I have never wanted to punch somebody in the face so badly before. I just wanted them to shut up, shut up, shut up!!! I was trying to employ the "Serenity now" technique from Seinfeld, but it worked as well for me as it did for George's father:(. I really don't get it, they do not even know each other, they just meet on those little trips, and they talk about soccer matches, politics, girls, boys, etc. Why, oh why? Are people so afraid of silence that it is necessary for them to fill every living second with some kind of useless noise?

So that was the only spoiler of otherwise gorgeous sites: skorkeling in Rio Prata ("Silver" river - called so because of the crystal clear water), tubing down the little waterfalls of Boia-Cross, white water rafting in Passeio de Bote, floating in Rio Sucuri, hiking in grotto de Lago Azul...

Thank God that due to the low season I seem to be the only guest at the hotel, so the whole beautiful forest with all the unknown birds and animals and - most importantly - SILENCE is mine. And for the first time in my life, I consciously enjoy and appreciate the quiet...